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BabyCakes: Vegan, Gluten-Free, and (Mostly) Sugar-Free Recipes from New York's Most Talked-About Bakery

This review was prepared by Marika of Madcap Cupcake.

When I heard that a copy of the newly minted BabyCakes by Erin McKenna (named after the famed New York bakery) was being sent to me to review, I was thrilled. I'd been listening to mounting hype surrounding the release of the book and I must admit, I was excited. The vibe was hip. When the book arrived at my door, my excitment peaked. It's a beauty. The graphic design is gorgeous - everything from the typeset to the colors is visually perfect. The photography is stunning and the palette, equal parts soothing and invigorating, ensures that the entire book feels full of personality.

I really wanted to love this book.

As I looked through the pages and drank in the delicious photos it was a nearly impossible task to narrow down my choices of what to bake first. The entire book bursted with bookmarks - torn testaments of my enthusiasm. I wanted to make as many things as practically possible.

First up, Spelt Biscuits - bringing me to a sizeable sore point with many gluten-free folks: The tagline on the front of my copy of the book reads, "Vegan, Gluten-Free, and (Mostly) Sugar-Free Recipes...” The problem is that spelt (which is used in approximately one third of the recipes) is not gluten-free. While this is ackowledged within the book, the cover is misleading. One can understand how someone suffering from Celiac Disease might be disappointed upon purchasing the book. There has been quite a backlash in this regard, as evidenced by the recent changing of the book's tagline with the insertion of the word 'Mostly' in front of 'Gluten-Free' on the cover.

So the Spelt Biscuits were made first. The dough turned out much wetter than one would expect based on the lovely photos in the book, which depict a much drier, loftier dough. My dough was also half the height that the book leads one to expect (even though I used the exact size cutter specified). Also, the biscuits refused to brown - remaining a pasty white despite baking for an extra 5 minutes. Despite their odd appearance, I liked the texture and thought they tasted alright. If I were to make them again, I'd increase the flour and maybe the leavening.

I made the Gingerbread next. It had to bake for an extra 30 minutes just to pass the toothpick test. Too bad toothpicks are only two inches long because, as it turns out, the cake was completely liquid inside and it fell - right through the cooling rack and onto the counter below. This was very disappointing. I don't like waste.

Next up was the Vanilla Frosting. I've since heard that many bakers have had problems with this recipe in particular. It came together smoothly. While fresh, I thought the texture was alright and I liked the subtle taste as it wasn't too sweet. After the required refrigeration however the frosting developed an odd aftertaste. It also starts to melt immediately at room temperature and then becomes unpleasantly greasy. I would decrease the coconut oil next time.

I made the Chocolate Chip Cookies next. I followed the directions exactly, including the recommended spacing apart of 1-inch, which I thought was too close but I made a point of following the directions to the letter. Big mistake. My jaw dropped when I checked on the cookies part way through baking to find that they had become a single mass and had overflowed over the sides of my rimless pans and onto the floor of my oven. Needless to say, the (sheet of) cookie was paper thin. Somewhat greasy – but it tasted alright and the texture was pleasantly chewy. I would increase the flour and/or decrease the oil next time.

Since I had been planning to use the cookies to make the recommended Cookie Sandwiches, I used a biscuit cutter to cut circles out of my 'sheet' of cookie. The Vanilla Frosting becomes far too greasy and squishy to work with at room temperature, making this a messy job. The book suggests freezing the sandwiches to make frozen treats. This option is more practical. Freezing also seems to improve the flavor of the frosting.

After scraping cookie dough off the bottom of my oven I proceeded to the next item: Ginger-Peach Corn Muffins. The batter overflowed again - this time setting my oven element on fire and filling my house with smoke. With windows open, I continued to bake the muffins for one hour - almost 40 minutes more than the specifed 22 minutes of baking time, and they still could not pass the toothpick test. The muffins were completely raw and sunken. The topic of exceedingly long baking times has been ackowledged on the BabyCakes bakery blog but not really addressed: "Also, seems like everyone's oven is producing different baking times so make sure to check your goods before taking them out of the oven to make sure that it's baked the whole way through, k?" Different baking times are normal, to a degree - baking an item with a specified time of 22 minutes for 60 minutes, and still failing to bake it, is not.

After the muffins, I decided it was time to call it quits with BabyCakes. I have to say, I felt somewhat deflated - but I was not alone. I began to see similar stories of inoordinately long baking times (and even an anecdote detailing an oven fire) via feedback left by readers on the BabyCakes blog. In response to a large number of frustrated people experiencing less than perfect results using the book, the bakery put up an FAQ. To add insult to injury, the FAQ is rather condescending. Comments like, "Ok new bakers, feel free to comment on your blunders" and "Remember, baker buddies, this isn't easy stuff," aren't going to endear the makers of this book to a frustrated public.

The verdict? Disappointment.

I'm not perfect. I am, however, an experienced baker who is familiar with alternative ingredients. I'm also good at reading instructions. I have the proper tools. I have two oven thermometers. I read the book cover to cover, with particular attention paid to the section on measuring. In fact I followed the instructions to the letter. I made no substitutions – even the brands of my coconut oil and flour were exactly what was recommended.

With so many fantastic cookbooks available, I cannot in good conscience recommend this book. The special ingredients like organic coconut oil and gluten-free flour mixes are pricey: I don't mind buying quality ingredients off the beaten path but I do mind wasting them – neither do I like wasting my time. The bottom line is that if you follow the directions of a recipe to the letter, have proper tools and measures, and use an oven thermometer, the recipe should work. You shouldn't need to wildly adjust ingredient amounts and double or triple baking times. Save your money and your sanity.

Audax Artifex
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Wow what a great review you did of a 'dissappointing' baking book. I checked on the web and on the site also and yes the recipes just don't seem to work for a whole lot of bakers. I admire your determination to try so many recipes that ultimately failed in every way imaginable. I'm sure after the third or fourth attempt you were very frustrated thinking was it me or the book and I'm sure from your comments it is the book's recipes. A pity I was very excited by the title since I know no gluten-free, vegan recipes. Maybe they will do another edition that works. It will not take long for the word to spread that the recipes don't work well.

Some other reviewers said
1.As for this edition, mine is going up for sale.
2.This has to be the worst cookbook ever and I have a lot of cookbooks. I really wanted to like this, but every recipe was lacking in something. The cooking times are inaccurate (plan to bake everything for much longer than suggested). The ingredients are numerous and expensive. I tried several recipes and they were all bad.
3.It was a total disaster.
4.This is uncategorically the worst cookbook I have ever used. I am an excellent baker,...So far, I have tried three recipes from this cookbook ... and nothing, I mean nothing, has turned out well.
5.I have made two recipes and they taste nothing like the bakery's versions. I have spent so much in ingredients, that I probably could have purchased them and had them shipped to me for less. ...This book just does not translate well and I feel ripped off.

Thank you for your well-measured review. Cheers.

jennywenny
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Oh dear. I bought the book and I dont regret it as a starting point for allergy free goodies, but I bought it at a signing event, so I saw the author talk. She's infectiously cheerful, really lovely, but unfortunately not very thorough and some of the health claims were just bizarre.

I havent even got round to making anything since the ingredients are kind of hard to get hold of, but I do appreciate that it maybe fills a niche for people with allergies. I'd probably turn to someone a little more with their feet on the ground like glutenfreegirl though in the future...

MadcapCupcake
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Audax - thanks for the support, it means a lot - and thank you for printing the examples of other bakers' experiences!

As a vegan, I was especially disappointed. It's my personal mission to illustrate how truly wonderful vegan baking can be - as such, I felt this book was a wasted opportunity - especially since it has received so much attention. I can't stand the thought of someone (who is perhaps unfamiliar with vegan or gluten-free baking) picking this book up and judging the food genre harshly when it is the book that's problematic.

Jenny - one of my favourite people and a true example of great gluten-free cooking and baking is Karina of Karina's Kitchen: fresh recipes from a gluten-free goddess. You probably already know her site, but just in case you don't (and for the benefit of our other DB-er's) you can find her site here.

Lis
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I'm sorry this book was such a let down. I know exactly what you are feeling as I've spent some major money on a few books that I had high hopes for, just to be disappointed after making a few of the recipes.

I have a kind of off-topic/on-topic question for you.. vegan and gluten free baking are not necessarily low in carbs, are they? Do you ever bake low-carb? If so, is there a book out there that you could recommend? I suppose baking low-carb isn't too important to a vegan or someone with allergies unless they were dieting, but I'm curious to know just how closely these alternative ways of baking relate.

Excellent review, Marika! I really enjoyed reading it and felt your frustration after baking so many recipes from the book.

MadcapCupcake
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Hi Lis Smile

Vegan and gluten-free baking are definitely not low in carbs (I wish!). I've never tried to bake low-carb but now that you've got me pondering it...using an alternative sweetener is where I would start. Something like Stevia in place of sugar would reduce the carbs significantly (you would need to account for the difference in dry volume since Stevia is much more potent). I know there are a lot of sugar-free bakers out there!

And, my next thought is to switch to, or incorporate, flours that are higher in fibre (whole grain, whole wheat, spelt, etc, versus white flour). High fibre flours are not lower in carbs but the dietary fibre in them (that makes up part of the carb count) are not digested (they pass through us) - whereas all the other simple carbs are digested and converted into sugar by the body. So (I think) high-fibre foods effectively lower the digested carb count overall. Hope that helps ♥

sazbah
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Oh, that is so dissapointing! It looks like such a lovely book. I cannot fathom why they would go to all the trouble of creating such a gorgeous book, marketing it, sending advance copies for review, but not checking those recipes thoroughly enough.

Thanks for the honest and objective review. Normally when I read about something that someone didn't like it can be subjective and rude; you've done a great job. Hope your oven is OK!!

veganlisa
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Marika,
Your review is amazingly informative. My brother bought a copy of this book. I had decided not to invest in one after reading the scathing reviews online. I have used his copy to make a couple of things, but I did end up making a lot of adjustments to the recipes in order to produce something edible.

When there are so many amazing vegan cookbooks out there this is such a disappointment-especially because there was so much excitement about its release.

VeganLisa

Hunnybee
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I'm really sad to hear all the negative reviews of this book. I was hoping to buy it for some family of mine that are gluten-free and I would hate to get them a book that is so impossible to use. Thanks for such a great effort in reviewing this book.

Shellyfish
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Lovely review, Marika! I feel like this book is such a disservice to the vegan and GF community, because it makes so many empty promises. If I'd never baked before and this had been my first "vegan" baking book I'd have really been discouraged...well, I'd have been discouraged not matter what I think! Bravo for keeping at it and trying, despite the issues. I think it's safe to say that Babycakes doesn't live up to its promises at all.

debyi
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Thank you Marika for the great review. My cousin is gluten-free & I think she would be offended by the original title of the book & how many uninformed gf'ers would be sick after trying some of these recipes. I agree Karina of Karina's Kitchen: fresh recipes from a gluten-free goddess is amazing! She has some great recipes & a nice style to her blog as well.

MadcapCupcake
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Hello friends - thank you for the kind sentiments. I share your frustration and exasperation, wholeheartedly....and Shel, just as you suggest, I am especially upset at the idea that someone who is a newbie baker, or new to alternative baking, might pick up the book and blame themselves for the dismal results. With so much hype surrounding the book, it's a lost opportunity.

fullybaked
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Great review Madcap. I asked my local library to buy a copy and was very excited to finally borrow it. I had originally read about the book on amazon and was charmed by the video on the babycakes website. The book is cute but the recommended ingredients are hard to come by here in Australia. It's mainly for that reason that I haven't tried any of the recipes but after reading your review, I don't think I'll even bother. It's back to the library for this book, where it has a long waiting list...

John Andy
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Agave Nectar This liquid is collected from the same plants that produce tequila, and has a more neutral flavor and a less-syrupy consistency than honey. It's as caloric as sugar, but is sweeter, so you can use less of it when baking. It also has a lower glycemic index than table sugar. Some say that pregnant women should avoid using agave nectar.

John

pastrybrush
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I wish I would have read your review before I got this book.
poopers Sad
I have tried to make the gingerbread twice, with modifications and i still can't get it to work. The only conclusion that I have come to is that some of the recipes were more than likely scaled down wrong or incorrectly.

I am completely disappointed...:sad face: