Written by Ivonne of Creampuffs in Venice.

The other day, I was working away at the computer when a coworker popped in and asked me if I was going away for Christmas.

I responded that I wasn’t and then she continued by saying, “Didn’t you go to Austria or something one year?”

That one question instantly transported me back to December 2006 when I went on a tour of Berlin, Prague and Vienna. While I loved both Berlin and Prague, the last few days of my trip were spent joyously wandering around the Austrian capital.

I experienced such a sense of nostalgia that for the rest of the day, I found myself thinking back to those amazing days, over and over.

Besides being among the most beautiful cities in the world, what captured my fancy most about those three cities were the Christmas festivities. I visited each city about two weeks before Christmas and each one was in the midst of pre-Christmas festivities that put our own celebrations here in North America to shame.

While I haven’t been to every city in North America, and while I’m sure we try to celebrate in our own special ways, what I saw in Berlin, Prague and Vienna was astonishing.

Berlin’s markets were welcoming and varied. Prague’s Christmas markets were sumptuous and festive. But it was the “Christkindlmarkt” of Vienna that bedazzled me. In fact, it was the city in its entirety that seemed to twinkle with millions of lights.

Everywhere you went you were guided by a sea of lights. I fell in love with Vienna in the glow of elegant chandeliers made entirely of Christmas lights — outside in the middle of a city street. I walked past grand pianos set up outside where musicians played the gorgeous waltzes of Austria.

At every Christmas market, I took in the sights and sounds of a city opening itself up to the joy of the season. I bought handmade ornaments and ate cookies by the pound. But more than anything what I remember is the scent in the air — orange, cloves, cinnamon and wine. Mingled together, those ingredients spoke loudly and they said “Glühwein”, the spiced holiday drink guaranteed to deliver cheer in a mug.

The vats of bubbling and steaming wine were a welcome sight every time I came across them. I won’t tell you how many mugs of Glühwein I enjoyed during my four days in Vienna.

Let’s just say there were many. Some of them I enjoyed on my own, and some of them I enjoyed with friends. But each and every one of them filled me with the warmth of the season.

On my last night in Vienna, I actually took a turn around the Ringstrasse with a mug of Glühwein as my companion.

While I was by myself, I was far from lonely. Instead, I was warmed by the cheer in the air (and in my mug). But mostly I felt the warmth of the season as all of Vienna offered up a Christmas wish.

Glühwein (Mulled Wine)

1 750 ml bottle of red wine
½ cup granulated sugar
4 or 5 whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
the peel of one orange
1 vanilla bean, split in half (optional)
brandy (optional)
orange slices

Empty out the bottle into a large pot.

Heat it gently over low heat (do not boil the wine).

As soon as the wine is warm to the touch, add the sugar and the spices, as well as the orange peel and the vanilla bean (if you’re using it).

Continue to steam the wine over low heat for about an hour making sure that it never boils. This allows all the flavours to steep.

At the end of the hour, taste the wine. If you like, add a bit more sugar. You can also spike it a bit with brandy.

Serve hot with slices of orange.

Enjoy!