This review was prepared by Becky of Thirty Dirty Fingers.
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While this stunningly beautiful book (Seasonal Fruit Desserts: From Orchard, Farm, and Market) contains many recipes and is technically a cookbook, it reads more like the notes of a kindly friend who has decided to give you an apprenticeship in the appreciation of the delights of fruit. Many of the recipes could be served at an elegant dinner; Swedish cream with Maple Sugar, Creme Fraiche and small dried fruits simmered in port comes to mind. Most of the book, however, is a trove of knowledge and hints on how to find, prepare, and consume the best that nature has to offer. This book is not one that uses strawberries as a garnish for a perfectly executed pastry, but rather one that helps us to whip up a simple cake or cookie that will go perfectly with certain fruits to show off their unique flavours and textures. Ideal pairings of fruit with cheeses, nuts, and spirits are also included to expand your repertoire.

The book begins with a section on how to grow or find the best fruit. Much of the book transferable to anyone, however those who do not live in North America may find that some information does not apply to their situation. She writes knowledgeably and passionately about native fruit treasures and pairings of different fruits that share harvest windows. This, of course, is climate and location dependent, and so may not always be true for where you live. In keeping with the spirit of the book, I refrained from trying out fruit that had been shipped across the globe, but I am looking forward to testing out her tips for choosing the best and juiciest stone fruits at the farmer’s markets, and now I finally know what to do with the next paw paw I encounter!

We get a produce box from our local CSA every week, and when I received this book, the only “fruit” in it was rhubarb and it was with great anticipation that I reached for this book to try one of the four rhubarb recipes. I finally settled on the Baked Rhubarb with Vanilla, Orange, and Clove, and have since made it four times. It is essentially just a method of baking the rhubarb with sugar and spices until just tender and then cooling it. It keeps nicely in a covered container in the fridge for at least a week, and spooned over creamy yogurt for breakfast, it is delicious.

The other fruit that we still had in abundance when I began this review were the tart storage apples from last fall. I began with the “No Worries Apple Galette”. Her pastry recipe is an all butter one that includes such things as whole wheat flour, so I was a little skeptical. My skepticism turned to worry after the rolled out dough cracked horribly when I folded it over the prepared apples. Fortunately, as the name suggests, I shouldn’t have worried. The finished product was amazing. The apples on the top were slightly dried and sweet, but still crisp and the fruit deep inside was tender but still firm and incredibly light, flavourful, and bursting with apple goodness. Wrapped in its buttery crust, it was a big hit with all of my eager testers.

The second apple recipe to be tested was the hearty but refined Souffleed Pancake with Caramelized Apples and Aged Cheddar. Cooked over the stovetop and then in the oven in a cast iron frying pan, it is a recipe that delivers a satisfying meal with no fuss and hardly any clean up. It also, as she points out in one of many quirky side notes, helps warm up your dining space if you happen to be living in a damp cold cottage on the west coast of Ireland! I was a little intimidated by the words souffle, caramelize, and flaming whiskey, but like every other recipe we tried, her instructions walk you through step by step and the finished product lives up to the hype. This pancake is now permanently on my list of perfect breakfast or cozy dinner foods.

Whether you are just beginning your culinary adventures or you are a seasoned cook, I would highly recommend this book as a source of great ideas, recipes, and advice for increasing your enjoyment of fruit.